Shut-off Valve @ Injection

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AKA: Injection Pump Stop Solenoid Shut-Off

AKA: Shut-Off-Valve @ Injection Pump

Project Box
Part Number(s): 1427133091, TWO Gaskets: 0010742080
Part Cost: $60, $1 each
Best Place to buy: Standard Places
Cost to Have it done in a shop: $
Difficulty Level: 3
How long it may take: 2 hours
Frequency: NOW!
Tools needed: Standard Various 10MM tools (Racketing 10MM UNFORTUNATELY will not work.)
Special tools needed:

This thing!

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I betcha if you've had your benz a while, AND you're having shutting off "issues" This thing needs to be replaced. How you can check is unplug it and look for black oil! If this is the case, it's gone bad, and the internal diaphragm is broken and oil is leaking through. From this solenoid, it goes to your ignition shut-off valve, and the rest of your vacuum system; so if you have a leak in one of your doors, you still need to fix those, or something. After I fixed this thing, whoh! My car shut off in 1 second! No more syringe hack for me.

Did this job: June 11, 2005

Now I did this, without any human assistance whatsoever, and no foreknowledge. You should be able to as well. It was a pain to do, but do-able for the novice.

1. Where the %$^& is it?

Don'tcha hate manuals that show where the part is, and it's surrounded by dozens of tubes and junk and you still have no clue! Well, that's how a lot of these pictures are going to be. :) But it's located on the back (towards the firewall) of the injection system, in front of the Oil-Filter Housing:

This is my artists rendition of where it is...

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There is a tube that goes right to it. This is the tube you should pull off and see if there is any oil in this, if so, it's bad and needs to be replaced.

Here the Mercedes Manual actually helps, this is what it would look like without the rest of the engine in the way:

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1. This first step is where you will spend most of your time!!! It's removing those four 10MM bolts that hold it in. There is no quick way, some you can get a socket on, others you can't. that top right one, was a killer for me. Break all the bolts and then spray some WD-40 on it may help.

2. After you have removed the four bolts, you will notice there is a square plate holding the circular solenoid in. Just remember that you have this. Taking this out is kinda tricky. It helped me to detach this socket: You'll see it down there between the solenoid and the engine:

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3. The best method I found (yeah in all my years of experiencing in doing this once..) is to take out the old oily solenoid by taking it out towards the engine. With that ball and socket joint removed, it's easier.

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Thar She Be! (Pulled out)

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This is an important angle for it to go in as well. That little ledge has to catch over something, and pull it in order for your engine to shut-off. If you play with the new part, you'll see how it works.

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There is the MIA Gasket! Remember SCRAP IT OFF GOOD!

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4. Now you have the new one ready to go in:

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Gasket - Metal Gasket - Gasket

  • Read Warning Below before continuing

5. This is tricky, keeping all the gaskets on and stuff, but put the solenoid back in the same position you took it out at, and work it back in. The end (vacuum connecting rod) needs to latch onto the control rod inside the injector. How are you going to know you got it on right? I have no idea! This is what I did. I held it in place, and it "felt" right. I don't remember doing anything special to "latch it onto the connecting rod" because just the nature of putting it in, you angle it in correctly. Anyways, how I tested it (before I painstakingly would put all 4 bolts back on, just to realize it didn't work) was I held it in place, and connected some vacuum hose to it, and on the other end of the hose, I suggest you put a syringe (the poor man's Mityvac), a Mityvac Vacuum or maybe you can get away with sucking it, (if it's nice clean new vacuum hose). Syringes are the cheap-man's tool, so I used that. So get your friend to start the car while you are holding it in place, then have them come out and pull the syringe. If it stops instantly, whohoo! you win. Keep holding it in place, Bolt it back on, and hook it back up!

- Caution must be used when replacing this valve. If the tab on the shut-off valve is not properly placed inside the Injector Pump, it will work to open the IP's throttle completely, leading to a runaway engine, which cannot be stopped by the "STOP" tab. Before continuing, be sure to have a spray-paint can cap handy, and disconnect the intake hose so that the cap can be used to cut air supply to the engine in the event that it has run away. If the air supply cannot be cut off, the engine will quickly run up to the fuel cut-off and will likely destroy itself if not contained quickly.

- For me, I still have to keep my doors unlocked for at least 10 seconds before I shut down, but it shuts down instantly. And if I start up the car, and keep my doors unlocked, this will shut it off right quick, no hesitation.

Yes, one day I will just get new vacuum elements for my doors and really fix it.

June 11, 2005

Once you've troubleshooted this, or want to try something else, go back to the Dieseling Index

or try these:

1. Door/Truck/Fuel Cap Unlock/Lock Diaphragms/Switches

2. Vacuum Tubing/3-way connectors/Valves

3. Shut-off Valve @ Injection

4. Shut-off Valve @ Ignition

5. A/C System Diaphragms

6. Vacuum Pump - Refurbishing

7. Replace Vacuum Pump