Replacing Front & Rear Shocks

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I figured my my shocks were going bad because 1. I've never changed them, and 2. When I turn it sounds like there are grunting ogars in my trunk and 3. when I go over a bump, there is a huge "chunk" and it feels I'm in a 7.0 earthquake.


Project Box
Part Number(s): various - 101705, 007303, B461184
Part Cost: $230 for all 4.
Best Place to buy: AutoHausAZ or eBay
Cost to Have it done in a shop: $500 - $1000
Difficulty Level: 4
How long it may take: 1-2 hours
Frequency: every 60,000 miles?
Tools needed: standard
Special tools needed: 10MM 12 point Socket

You will also need: 8mm 10mm (12 point) 17mm socket (6 point & 12 point) & wrench (or adjustable) 2 Jack stands & Jack

We're going to replace all 4, let's start @ the back. The car should not be jacked up @ this time.

1. Take out the back lower seat. There is two buttons you press, one at a time, after you press it, lift it up, and do the other one.

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1a. Collect up the change, move to Mexico, and live like a queen.

2. There is THREE 8mm screws you need to take out to take out the back-rest seat.

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Under the center arm rest

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Two of these, one on each side

3. Lift UP the back-seat, it's just a simple overhang system

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4. Pop-off the cap and expose the chewy goodness inside.

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5. You will see TWO 17MM Bolts. Take an adjustable or 17MM Wrench and hold the bottom bolt. Unscrew the top bolt. For me, I had to use "The Persuaders" Oddly enough, this was the only part of the project in which is was needed.

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6. Then take off the other bolt. Don't worry about anything falling out and stuff. Remember the order in which your car is. I've decided with everyone's comments, they are ALL not the same. And you basically need to do it the way your car works. So the same for the other side.

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7. Let's go to the front of the car. Take off the two front bolts, same method as the back.

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for me, for some reason, I couldn't get the second bolt off, until I did the next step. All worked out okay though.


8. Break the bolts loose for your wheels. Now you can jack up the front of the car, put the stands up.

9. Take off your wheels. Stick your key in the ignition, and turn it so you can now turn your wheels. If you do the left wheel first, turn as far left as you can. This makes it a lot easier to work on.

10. Get your 10MM 12 point socket.

Unscrew the OUTER bolt first.

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11. Use your muscles and now PULL the shock down and out as far as you can, out of the wheel well would be idea. It's not that hard, the new ones are harder.

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12. Now unscrew the second bolt. It was a pain for me too.

13. Tada! Now, take note on exactly how your shock is assembled.

14. Put your new shock together the same way. I couldn't, so I put it together like this:

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15. Now put the new shock in, and start with the inner bolt and the shock outside the wheel well.

16. Compress it (it takes a lot of pressure, but it can be done) and put it back in, all the way to the hole. Make sure you put everything back on it, (sheath).

17. Screw in the other bolt. USE THE NEW BOLTS! On top, don't worry that it doesn't seem to fit, when you lower the car, it will be fine.

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18. Do the same for the other side, turning the wheel the opposite direction for access.


19. Now you can lower your car, and put the NEW rubber donut, and metal washer back on the top. Screw in the first bolt, and then the second, holding it, etc. It will just spin if you don't hold it like you took it off. I don't know why. Compress it until the rubber doesn't move. You should smoosh it a bit, but not took much.

REMEMBER to tighten your wheel bolts once it's on the ground. I have it from a good source, that has some inside information that says your new shocks will not work if you're wheels fly off on the test run!!!

20. Let's go to the back. Break loose the wheel bolts, and jack it up. Find a good place for the jack stands... I always put them on the shocks, but now I couldn't do that. Jack it up, and get your 17MM socket racketing wrench ready.

21. It's cake, just unscrew the two bolts,

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and they fall right out, right on your face. See how these are out together too.

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For me, I used the THICKER rubber for the bottom one

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22. Slide the new one back in. I had to get another person to look in from the top to help me line up, once it's up there, screw in the NEW 17MM bolts and do the same on the other side.

23. Now put the rubber spacer and metal washer (the flat one) on the top, screw in the first screw, followed by the second using the same method you've already done it many times! Do it to the other side.

24. Pop the cap back on, put the backrest back in, screw in the three bolts, put the seat back in, and enjoy your new ride!

If any of these instructions are unclear, I more pictures. Feel free to threaten me to make it better.